“The ugliest collection of Paris”A collection called Liberation from Yves Saint Laurent

From the peplum silhouette to the middle , everything has been done and has done it again a hundred times. And haute couture no longer emits more than homesickness and restraint. As if it were an old lady. I do not care if my clothes evoke the 40´s eyes of the cultivated public. The important thing is that all young girls who didn´t live the time, wanna wear this today.”

– Yves Saint Laurent to Berthod

On 29 January 1971 the spring -summer collection of Yves Saint Laurent was in the halls of the Rue Spontini :marked by a retro style , overloaded makeup, mini dresses, jackets with straight shoulder , sharp lapels and platform shoes with open toe. Viewers quickly realized they were in the decade of the 40s , recalling the Second World War still having spent 25 years of the famous event .

The Daily Telegraph baptized it “Nauseating” . The Guardian as “A display of bad taste.” Daily Sketch as “Women at its worst ” and even Eugenia Sheppard named it “The ugliest collection of Paris”. Spectators came shouting “What a horror! ” in the middle of the fashion show. So much hatred into a collection of a designer who inadvertently became part of one of the main pillars of what we call today as retro fashion.

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Over the years, this style that was based in Yves Saint Laurent to create retro fashion, takes its real success in its edition reworked as Rive gauche .

But, where does this inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent come? Nothing more and nothing less than Paloma Picasso , daughter of the famous painter Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot . A young woman who accidentally was hogging the cameras with his red turban, a short leather jacket of black swan, a slinky dress and platform shoes with round toe . With her came the collection of 71 and for YSL, one of the most decisive figures to give this turn to the collection inspired at 40´s.

The commotion that this collection meant for all , made the clients who were faithful to this style , give them fear to pass the house of the seam. Belle de Jour , Luis Buñuel film, it´s about a whorehouse , and uses the wardrobe of Saint Laurent . That proved to be his film, in which the main characters (prostitutes ) dressed in a modern , seductive and almost a little ordinary.

The collection of 71 was an anatomical manifest. Even Suzy Menkes said on January 30, 1971 that ” The back is the new erogenous zone of Yves Saint Laurent ” . This was confirmed by Saint Laurent: “For years , the human eye has become accustomed to a girl with gait boy without chest or waist or hip. I would never have thought that the appearance of a real woman could cause a scandal.”

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